Over the last 30 years, Donatella Versace has brought glamour, luxury and her unapologetic attitude to the fashion world. However, effective April 1, she has officially stepped down as Versace’s Chief Creative Officer (CCO) to be replaced by Miu Miu design and image director, Dario Vitale.
Donatella, referred to here by her first name for clarity, first took leadership over Versace in 1997 after the sudden passing of her brother and Versace founder, Gianni Versace. Since then, she has transformed the family company into her own and made it the fashion powerhouse it is today.
Even with economic challenges and potential bankruptcy in the early 2000s, Donatella successfully navigated these obstacles to dominate the industry as she has. As CCO, she has created memorable celebrity appearances, runway collections and exclusive collaborations. As an icon of the fashion world, she has left a lasting impression on the industry, raising concern for what the future of Versace looks like without its fearless leader.
Donatella is one of the few designers who have left such an impact on a fashion house. After taking over at Versace, she not only preserved the brand’s signature style but accentuated its luxury for the new generation entering the 2000s. Versace had an unmistakable aesthetic, often including loud prints, snug silhouettes and gold accents, all of which Donatella intensified through her mix of glamour and contemporary taste.
After Donatella became acquainted with her role and the company gained momentum, Versace was quickly established as a powerful force on the red carpet. Google searches for Jennifer Lopez’s Grammy Awards dress in 2000 were so common that they pushed Google to invent its image search engine. This jungle print dress with a plunging neckline took hold of the internet and even led to Lopez re-wearing the memorable look in a 2019 runway show.
At the same time, Donatella further expanded Versace’s influence in pop culture. Versace has dressed notable celebrities like Beyoncé, Lady Gaga and Kim Kardashian. Beyoncé has frequently worn Versace over the years, from her green dress at the 2003 MTV Movie Awards to her custom western-style design at the iHeartRadio Music Awards. She proudly sported the iconic Versace Medusa symbol to accept the 2024 Innovator Award.
While Versace was adored by the entertainment industry, its tried and true home was the runway. From the start, Versace kept supermodels like Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss at the forefront to maintain the sensuality and high status of the brand. Even as other fashion houses transitioned towards minimalism in the early 2000s, Donatella kept Versace maximalist and bold.
In 2018, Versace’s Spring Collection was a tribute to Gianni, marking 20 years since his death. Donatella recreated some of his most famous designs, including patterns and pop art inspired looks. The show ended with a nostalgic finale, a lineup of supermodels Cindy Crawford, Carla Bruni, Naomi Campbell, Helena Christensen as well as Claudia Schiffer, reuniting on the runway for this tribune. This was a special moment for the company and for Donatella to honor her brother and his lasting influence.
Shortly after, Versace organized one of the biggest fashion crossovers in recent history. The 2021 Fendance Collaboration with Fendi was unexpected but extremely successful. The two companies essentially swapped roles, Fendi redesigning Versace with their personal aesthetic, and Donatella creating Fendi pieces with Versace influence, like Medusa heads and busy prints. This special collection showed how companies can execute collaborations that merge identities rather than only simply co-branding.
Recently, her Spring and Summer 2023 Collection showed Versace’s versatility as the fashion industry evolves. This collection held a gothic meets glam aesthetic, pushing an edgier side of the brand. Nonetheless, Donatella ensured that Versace stayed true to its roots through structured tailoring and finishing touches.
So, after 30 years of well-executed leadership, why now?
In short, Donatella’s departure may not have been entirely self-decided. In 2018, Versace was acquired by Capri Holdings for over $2 billion. Since then, the company has been experimenting with various internal shifts, most likely leading to this “thoughtful succession plan.” However, there is talk that the Prada Group, the parent company of Dario Vitale’s previous employer MiuMiu, is interested in buying Versace from Capri Holdings, which may have influenced this decision.
As Vitale takes over, there is a risk of change in aesthetics and branding of Versace. Vitale may approach the brand aesthetic differently, modifying classic silhouettes, colors or logos with a modern perspective. Additionally, where Donatella was known for celebrity-focused marketing and red-carpet features, Vitale could take a different direction depending on his vision for the brand. Until we hear more about his strategy moving forward, the future for Versace is still unclear.
Luckily, Donatella is not entirely leaving Versace. She will be entering the role of Chief Brand Ambassador, a philanthropic position where she can still play a role in the brand’s identity.
In her announcement she assured that she will continue to support Versace. “Versace is in my DNA and always in my heart,” she added.
It is strange to picture the brand without Donatella at its head. There is still hope that her influence will remain, even if the vision evolves.