Ludovic de Saint Sernin FW24 was not only historic because it was the designer’s first New York Fashion Week (NYFW) show, but also because it was a collaboration with the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation. Shown in a dim warehouse-like floor of a Chelsea skyscraper, the collection is a sweeping yet inventive celebration of Mapplethorpe’s eternal relevance.
Mapplethorpe’s highly provocative photography of the 1970s and ’80s not only provided a by-queer-for-queer look into that world, but also paved the way for other queer artists. His reputation as a controversial photographer has, at times, undercut/undermined his nuanced vision of the queer community, a vision which de Saint Sernin highlights. Both de Saint Sernin’s creative practice and life are informed by Mapplethorpe. Mapplethorpe’s ability to traverse various creative communities and the way he sculpted his life as a queer artist has become a model for de Saint Sernin’s work and life in the fashion world.
The collection’s textural interplay between velvet, leather and sheer fabrics constructs an essential piece of de Saint Sernin’s complex conversation between reference and invention. Sprinkled with jewelry pieces from Tous, the collection exemplifies the evocative sexuality of Mapplethorpe’s opus. The evocative floral silhouette on the opening look is a subtle nod to Mapplethorpe’s sexually-charged floral series. As the show unfolds, this delicate motif reappears in minimalist monochromatic looks and striking scarlet statement pieces; the designer himself wore a flower silhouette top during his final walk.
De Saint Sernin’s alluring use of sheer fabrics and slim-cut skirts and trousers gradually evolved into striking silhouettes and leather lingerie. Look 10 complements the floral motif throughout the show, but is a striking answer to the subtle concealment of the first look; a close-fitting shimmering red dress places both the garment and body on display. The interplay of textures, most present in the variety of fabrics, sculpts an alluring vision of free sexual expression and artistic invention. Slinky sex appeal oozes from the dichotomy between clingy dresses and powerful leather pieces. The selective exposure and concealment of skin through voluminous coats, underwear as outerwear and translucent fabrics create an alluring blend of enigmatic sexuality. Barely-there leather bras are followed by trenches as the muted opening shades give way to dark and bold colors. The stark dichotomy expresses how the body is a canvas for de Saint Sernin. This scintillating blend of concealment and exposure culminates in a visceral conclusion to the show; leather with silver grommets is a timely callback to the show’s inciting force, Mappelthrope. The silver hardwear of Look 18, emphasized by the horizontal layers of silver grommets of Look 31, evokes the sense of self-possession that the collection has built up to. Look 36 is a silky and slinky, almost liquid, dress paired with silver grips. Mixed in with leather finale pieces, this elegant yet sultry gown is a concluding nod to the earlier lineup of gowns. The final looks, dominated by leather, are a riveting conclusion to a sensual and evocative show, nailing down the complex expression of sexual exploration which de Saint Sernin constructs. De Saint Sernin wraps the audience up in a fantasy that the collection provides a glimpse into — it’s not just the clothes themselves, but the cultural connection which infuses the collection with a sense of free expression of queer sexuality beyond the runway. The clothes and sensuality go hand in hand, each building on each other within a complex conversation between reference, exploration and reinvention.
Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s first NYFW show will certainly not be his last. This creative collaboration with a New York icon is part of why New York has been and continues to be an ideal place for fashion reinvention and exploration. In terms of student involvement with NYFW, there are several ways to get involved. Anyone can fill out an application to volunteer at the NYFW by reaching out to designers or even venues. There is also always the possibility of interning at a major or up-and-coming fashion house for insider access.
