Gone are the days of coaches with style and flair in American sports. For the most part, fashion in American sports has become a lost art, with the Pat Rileys and Mike Ditkas of the world considered relics of another time.
So what happened?
For the National Football League, the answer is clear-cut. In the late 1980s, many coaches, including Ditka, began wearing team-branded sweaters. However, when Ditka would wear a sweater, a button-up and tie were nearly always included. According to ESPN, the official death of the suit came around 1990, when the NFL mandated that all sideline personnel wear officially licensed NFL gear. In 2007, San Francisco 49ers coach Mike Nolan and Jacksonville Jaguars coach Jack Del Rio got permission from the league to wear suits for home matchups after Nolan spent three years negotiating with Commissioner Roger Goodell and the league’s merchandising partner, Reebok. According to Nolan, Reebok was not exactly helpful in the process. “They wish it would go away, but I try to keep it alive as much as I can,” said Nolan when speaking to ESPN. Nolan wore his signature black suit as a tribute to his dad, the late great Dick Nolan. Unfortunately, for the sanctity of fashion in the NFL, these suits had to be designed by Reebok, and the trend eventually died out alongside Noland and Del Rio’s respective stints as head coaches.
Since then, the average NFL coach dresses no differently than a training staff member, wrapped up in a cocoon of athleisure as they jaunt down the sideline. One man in particular, New England Patriots head coach Bill Belichick, has made it his mission to be the opposite of fashion-forward, sporting a gray Patriots hoodie with haphazardly cut-off sleeves. Yet, no one bats an eye.
One man who would most likely scoff at the idea of a Reebok suit or a sleeveless hoodie on gameday is former Lakers head coach and current president of the Miami Heat, Pat Riley. I and many others consider Riley the best-dressed coach of all time, garnering him a reputation as the “Made in Italy” style icon for his expertly tailored Giorgio Armani suits worth thousands of dollars. Yahoo Sports even listed him as their best-dressed NBA coach of all time in 2023, nearly 20 years removed from his days in charge. His legacy lasted decades, with coaches like Gregg Popovich and Steve Kerr following “suit,” however, like many things in our society, the NBA dress code was affected by COVID-19.the pandemic.
According to GQ, the National Basketball Association moved from its previously strictly enforced dress code of dress shirts and sportcoats to a more informal “business attire.” When the league went into quarantine, and the coaches hung up their suits, they left them there for good. They now opt for a polo shirt, hidden by an athletic quarter-zip adorned with their team logo. Due to the added exposure accompanying branded gear on the sidelines, it is doubtful that Commissioner Adam Silver will revoke the COVID-19-era dress code.
At the college level, Saint John University’s head coach Rick Patino and Fordham University’s very own Keith Urgo continue to rock the pocket square and fine tailoring defiantly. In the women’s game, Louisiana State University coach Kim Mulkey continues to stun fans with her avant-garde pantsuits, which have even caused large media outlets like the Washington Post to label her as a distraction. Unfortunately, college coaches nationwide have begun the switch to business casual attire.
“I hate to see it… Jay Wright was making a statement every time he coached a game. I don’t want it to go away, but it’s a product of our time,” said broadcaster Jim Natz when speaking to Sports Illustrated in 2021.
His remarks regarding 21-year Villanova University head coach Jay Wright echo a growing sentiment that formal dress is a thing of the past. However, Nantz is right when he says that coaches like Wright, who suited up on gameday, were making a statement. Pat Riley didn’t just wear Armani suits because he was friends with Giorgio Armani (which he was); he opted for formal attire because he knew his appearance was more significant than basketball.
“I think when you’re a leader, you have to present yourself in a way that’s real… The suits were impeccable because I felt I had to present a respectful leadership figure to the fans in Los Angeles,” said Riley, speaking to The Daily Coach.
When players and fans today look at their coach, they see someone who appears no different to them. While this may align with the sentiment of our interconnected culture, the head coach’s myth and “aura” are preparing to receive their last rites. Only this time, when it dies, the body won’t be wrapped in Italian silk, instead opting for the 100% polyester of Nike’s Dri-Fit tracksuits.
